berbagi ilmu

udah lama ya gw ga posting di blog ini,,
well, sekarang gw bakal ngepost bahan pelajaran fotografi gw yang mudah-mudahan bisa berguna,,

have a look!!

1. Freeze

Setelah memahami DOF yang berkaitan dengan aperture, kali ini akan dijelaskan tentang freeze, dimana sangat berkaitan erat dengan shutter speed. Foto freeze bertujuan untuk mengabadikan suatu moment dengan gerakan cepat sehingga dapat tertangkap oleh kamera sebagai gambar diam, seperti foto tetesan air, ledakan, atau foto ketika orang sedang melompat dan lain sebagainya. Yang paling utama dalam mendapatkan foto freeze adalah mengatur shutter speed secepat mungkin ( misal 1/500 detik, 1/1000 detik, hingga 1/8000 detik ). Karena tuntutan shutter speed yang cepat, maka tentunya cahaya yang dibutuhkan sangat banyak, maka dari itu biasanya foto freeze amatir lebih banyak dilakukan di ruang terbuka pada siang hari dimana cahaya matahari bersinar terang. Bukan tidak mungkin untuk memperoleh foto freeze pada malam hari atau cahaya yang minim, namun peralatan pendukung mutlak diperlukan seperti flash atau bahkan lampu studio dengan kecepatan singkronisasi yang tinggi pula.
Berikut contoh foto freeze:
foto 1 ( dengan flash ):



2. Movement

Bertentangan dengan foto freeze, foto movement bertujuan memperlihatkan pergerakan objek dengan shutter speed yang rendah, sehingga pergerakan objek dapat tampak pada hasil foto. Shutter speed yang digunakan cenderung rendah agar pergerakan objek dapat terekam ( misal 1/5 detik, 1 detik, dst ), namun yang patut diperhatikan adalah kamera harus tetap dalam posisi statis agar background daripada objek tetap fokus walaupun shutter speed lambat.
Berikut contoh foto movement:


3. Panning

Mirip dengan metode foto movement, namun dalam foto panning gerakan objek lebih ditampilkan melalui background yang bergerak. Prinsip dasar foto panning sama dengan foto movement, hanya saja pada saat pemotretan, kamera ikut bergerak mengimbangi gerakan objek, sehingga objek tetap fokus namun background yang dihasilkan bergerak.
Contoh foto panning:




Cara foto panning:
Bidik sasaran bergerak ( pada umumnya mobil ), tekan tombol shutter 1/2 agar fokus mengunci objek, gerakan kamera mengikuti objek seketat mungkin agar objek tetap fokus, sekiranya dirasa gerakan kamera sudah mengimbangi gerakan objek, tekan tombol shutter penuh dengan kamera yang tetap bergerak mengikuti objek.

4. Bulb

Foto bulb dapat diperoleh melalui mode manual dengan mengatur shutter speed pada setting paling lambat ( BULB ), dimana shutter akan terus terbuka selama tombol ditekan dan akan menutup kembali pada saat tombol dilepas. Yang patut diperhatikan pada foto bulb adalah posisi kamera yang mutlak harus statis, maka gunakanlah tripod untuk menghasilkan foto bulb.
Contoh foto bulb:


5. Zooming

If you want to have a little fun with your digital camera next time you go out with it have a go at experimenting with the zoom effect.
In essence what the zoom effect is is a picture which look like the subject is either moving towards or away from you with motion lines.
There are a number of ways to get this effect some are done while shooting the image and some afterwards through zoom blur post production techniques. I’m not going to talk about post production techniques here but will instead focus upon what to do to achieve the zoom effect while taking the shot in camera.
Ultimately what you need to do to get this effect is set your shutter speed to be a longer exposure and then while taking the shot (between when the shutter opens and closes) you will need to use your zoom lens to either zoom in or out from your subject.
That is the basics of it but in reality getting a good zoom effect takes a lot of practice and experimentation and/or a bit of luck.
Here are a few tips to help you improve your results:

• Keep the Camera Still as you will be using a slow shutter speed any movement of the camera will significantly impact your shot. Ultimately you want to capture a zooming movement in these shots so any side to size or up and down shake will impact the smoothness of the lines in your image. Of course camera shake can also add interesting effects to the shot but it can also make the shot too blurry. To eliminate camera shake use a tripod or set your camera on a still surface.

• Lower Light Situations might help one of the problems with using longer shutter speeds is that you let more light into your camera. You can help your camera cope with this extra light by using a larger aperture (the larger the number the smaller the hole that lets light in) but in bright situations you still might not be able to use long shutter speeds without over exposing your image. As a result it can be easier to get well exposed zoom effect shots in lower light situations.

• Lights are Fun taking the last point into consideration one of the most popular subjects for the zoom effect is lights whether they be city lights, Christmas lights, neon signs etc. They are often a good place to practice the technique and can produce pretty spectacular effects.
• Move the Camera Manually if you don’t have a zoom lens or your camera won’t let you zoom while the shutter is open (as happens on some point and shoot cameras) the other way to get this effect is to manually move your camera towards or away from your subject. Of course this introduces other camera shake (see above) but it is possible to get a nice shot if you’re good (or lucky).
• When choosing a shutter speed there is no one shutter speed that will work for all situations. Factors to consider will include the levels of light, the speed at which you’ll zoom etc. I generally would shoot at up to a second (or even a little longer) which is usually enough to zoom a lens from one end to another. The key is to experiment with different shutter speeds to see what works best.

• Work on Smooth Zooming to get nice smooth motion lines in your photo you’ll need to work at a ’smooth zoom’. ie you don’t want to zoom at one speed early on and then speed up and then slow down (see next point for the exception). This will make your lines a little jerky. Getting a nice smooth zoom technique takes practice.
• Pause mid-zoom another technique to experiment is to pause your zooming either at the start, end or during the procedure (while the shutter is still open). This will mean that what your camera sees at the point when you pause your zoom will be stronger and hopefully clearer in your shot.
• Fire your Flash another element that you can add to this technique is light. You can do this with virtually any light but the most common one is obviously the flash. Fire it during your long exposure and you’ll freeze part of the image while still getting movement behind and around it. Some cameras will allow you to do this using ‘night mode’.

• Reverse the Zoom zooming in on a subject can give a different result than zooming out, especially if your subject is moving and depending upon whether you pause at the beginning and or end of the zoom. Experiment with both.
• Partial Zoom some zoom lenses have very wide focal lengths. I have a friend with a 28-200 zoom and he finds that using the zoom effect can be too much if he starts at one end and goes right to the other. For starters he can’t maintain a smooth zoom over that focal length but also it’s just too much motion for one image. Instead it can be more effective to only zoom part of your focal length range. If you have a 28 200mm try zooming from 28-100mm or from 80-200mm or even smaller ranges.
Most of all have fun with the zoom effect and experiment.
You’ll only really work out what works with your camera and photographic situation when you give it a go and tweak your approach as you go.


contoh foto zooming:






maap yang terakhir ga sempet gw translet,,
malas soalnya,,ahhaaa,,XDD


mudah-mudahan bisa berguna yaaa,,

see ya in the next post!!!